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Anthony Gismondi.
In this bi-monthly wine editorial from the well known and respected wine critic, Anthony Gismondi, you will enjoy his insights on our feature theme together with interesting facts and information on how you can best buy and try wines. This is your chance to learn directly from the best.
What’s old is new... again
The wines of France are back in vogue
September 3, 2010
Some would say the wines of France are so old they are new again and for many wine consumers, especially those under 40 it’s likely a true statement. Thirty years ago French wines were the go-to wines in the marketplace but their supremacy has been under assault for decades now and while the French market has never really collapsed there has been some considerable bending.
Competitors from California, Australia, Chile, Argentina, Spain, South Africa and yes Canada have been chipping away at the French market share for years and with great success. Luckily for the French, copying what they do has proven more difficult than many had thought and after all the battles there is still a mystique about French wine and food that makes it as vibrant today as it was in the 1970s except the wines are better made now than they ever were.
Interestingly France is getting some help from New World producers who at the low end of the market are getting sloppy relying on critters and packaging to sell their wine and eschewing the quality-for-price dictum that was so crucial to its original game plan to carve away market share from the Old World. And as you might expect the French are fighting back.
It used to be that everyone drank Bordeaux, knew the vintages and most of the major chateaux but those days are long gone. Fine Bordeaux prices are through the roof leaving consumers to enter the French market, at least today from a different vantage point.
The French region generating the most interest at the moment is the Rhone Valley. The reason is simple: real value. The current price-quality-ratio in the southern Rhone is one of the best in the business with particular emphasis on the quality side. Post-recession it seems wine drinkers are headed en masse to wines several dollars below what they have been drinking and that phenomenon is good news for the Rhone. Somewhat like Bordeaux experience, expensive northern Rhone appellations Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas are taking a back seat to the one or more of the lesser, or minor, southern sub-appellations of the southern Rhone Valley.
French white wine is enjoying a similar boon thanks to the New World’s insistence on using so much new oak. The big winner in France is Chablis. The tiny district of is located in the northeast corner of France, between Champagne and Burgundy. Although it is often considered part of the entire 25,000 hectare Burgundy region, with just over 6830 ha of available vineyard land and four official appellations or classifications, Chablis has managed to maintain its own status as a unique producer of serious white wine.
Interestingly, Chablis’ fame as a region and a wine far exceeds that of the grape used in its production - chardonnay. In fact the varietal chardonnay moniker doesn’t even appear on the label where appellation (Chablis) and its many classifications (1er Cru, Grand Cru et al) are de rigueur. There’s nothing more traditional than Chablis and perhaps nothing more modern than the Stelvin screwcap closure and I’m happy to report both are flourishing inside the confines of a very traditional French appellation.
Speaking of appellations the giant French wine region of the Languedoc is moving to simplify its 29 appellations into three major parts. A new joint trade organisation CIVL created in 1994, has structured and organised the appellations of natural sweet, sparkling and still wines covering the entire Languedoc-Roussillon region, from the gates of Nimes to the Spanish border under the new regional appellation Languedoc AOC launched in 2007. The base Languedoc appellation will form the foundation of a three-tier pyramid that will include a series of grand cru and grand vin wines at the top. Languedoc red wines are doing extremely well in British Columbia and are prefect all partners for cool weather and damp rainy nights.
Finally, Champagne remains the quintessential sparkling wine and while the recession has made us think twice about celebrating with super expensive wines it is difficult to avoid the tradition and ceremony of popping the cork on one of the world’s finest drinks. So don’t be afraid to drink some champagne and live it up once and awhile.
As we head in the Fall we offer you a top ten list of modern French wines you should taste as part of your continuing wine education.
Arrogant Frog Ribet White Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France $14
A dry crisp, grassy citrus nose previews a similar palate of passion fruit, citrus and lime rind.
Paul Mas Viognier 2008, l'Hérault, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France $14
Look for a fresh aromatic floral nose that mixes nectarines and dried fruits. Great value.
Ogier Crozes-Hermitage Les Brunelles 2007, Northern Rhone, France $27
Black cherries, plums, liquorice and rich meaty, flavours. Ready-to drink.
Three Winds Syrah 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France $14
A delicious syrah at a great price. Serve with lamb chops or grilled beef.
Francois Lurton Les Fumées Blanches 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France $13
Clean, balanced and crazy value and all under screwcap.
La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge 2008 Southern Rhone Valley, France $14
The Perrin Cotes du Ventoux is mostly grenache with bits of syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault.
William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2008, Burgundy, France $29
Crisp with citrus, melon, red apple, mineral flavours and a crisp finish.
Lanson Black Label Brut N/V, Champagne, France $60
An elegant style with good finesse and balance.
Coudoulet de Beaucastel Rouge 2007 Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France $37
A baby Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Drinkable now.
Chat-en-Oeuf Dry Rosé 2009 Côtes-du-Ventoux, Southern Rhone Valley, France $14
Fine acidity and citrus strawberry fruits all with a crisp clean finish. Delightful.
Competitors from California, Australia, Chile, Argentina, Spain, South Africa and yes Canada have been chipping away at the French market share for years and with great success. Luckily for the French, copying what they do has proven more difficult than many had thought and after all the battles there is still a mystique about French wine and food that makes it as vibrant today as it was in the 1970s except the wines are better made now than they ever were.
Interestingly France is getting some help from New World producers who at the low end of the market are getting sloppy relying on critters and packaging to sell their wine and eschewing the quality-for-price dictum that was so crucial to its original game plan to carve away market share from the Old World. And as you might expect the French are fighting back.
It used to be that everyone drank Bordeaux, knew the vintages and most of the major chateaux but those days are long gone. Fine Bordeaux prices are through the roof leaving consumers to enter the French market, at least today from a different vantage point.
The French region generating the most interest at the moment is the Rhone Valley. The reason is simple: real value. The current price-quality-ratio in the southern Rhone is one of the best in the business with particular emphasis on the quality side. Post-recession it seems wine drinkers are headed en masse to wines several dollars below what they have been drinking and that phenomenon is good news for the Rhone. Somewhat like Bordeaux experience, expensive northern Rhone appellations Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas are taking a back seat to the one or more of the lesser, or minor, southern sub-appellations of the southern Rhone Valley.
French white wine is enjoying a similar boon thanks to the New World’s insistence on using so much new oak. The big winner in France is Chablis. The tiny district of is located in the northeast corner of France, between Champagne and Burgundy. Although it is often considered part of the entire 25,000 hectare Burgundy region, with just over 6830 ha of available vineyard land and four official appellations or classifications, Chablis has managed to maintain its own status as a unique producer of serious white wine.
Interestingly, Chablis’ fame as a region and a wine far exceeds that of the grape used in its production - chardonnay. In fact the varietal chardonnay moniker doesn’t even appear on the label where appellation (Chablis) and its many classifications (1er Cru, Grand Cru et al) are de rigueur. There’s nothing more traditional than Chablis and perhaps nothing more modern than the Stelvin screwcap closure and I’m happy to report both are flourishing inside the confines of a very traditional French appellation.
Speaking of appellations the giant French wine region of the Languedoc is moving to simplify its 29 appellations into three major parts. A new joint trade organisation CIVL created in 1994, has structured and organised the appellations of natural sweet, sparkling and still wines covering the entire Languedoc-Roussillon region, from the gates of Nimes to the Spanish border under the new regional appellation Languedoc AOC launched in 2007. The base Languedoc appellation will form the foundation of a three-tier pyramid that will include a series of grand cru and grand vin wines at the top. Languedoc red wines are doing extremely well in British Columbia and are prefect all partners for cool weather and damp rainy nights.
Finally, Champagne remains the quintessential sparkling wine and while the recession has made us think twice about celebrating with super expensive wines it is difficult to avoid the tradition and ceremony of popping the cork on one of the world’s finest drinks. So don’t be afraid to drink some champagne and live it up once and awhile.
As we head in the Fall we offer you a top ten list of modern French wines you should taste as part of your continuing wine education.
Arrogant Frog Ribet White Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France $14
A dry crisp, grassy citrus nose previews a similar palate of passion fruit, citrus and lime rind.
Paul Mas Viognier 2008, l'Hérault, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France $14
Look for a fresh aromatic floral nose that mixes nectarines and dried fruits. Great value.
Ogier Crozes-Hermitage Les Brunelles 2007, Northern Rhone, France $27
Black cherries, plums, liquorice and rich meaty, flavours. Ready-to drink.
Three Winds Syrah 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, South of France $14
A delicious syrah at a great price. Serve with lamb chops or grilled beef.
Francois Lurton Les Fumées Blanches 2008, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France $13
Clean, balanced and crazy value and all under screwcap.
La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge 2008 Southern Rhone Valley, France $14
The Perrin Cotes du Ventoux is mostly grenache with bits of syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault.
William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2008, Burgundy, France $29
Crisp with citrus, melon, red apple, mineral flavours and a crisp finish.
Lanson Black Label Brut N/V, Champagne, France $60
An elegant style with good finesse and balance.
Coudoulet de Beaucastel Rouge 2007 Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France $37
A baby Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Drinkable now.
Chat-en-Oeuf Dry Rosé 2009 Côtes-du-Ventoux, Southern Rhone Valley, France $14
Fine acidity and citrus strawberry fruits all with a crisp clean finish. Delightful.
